I take it all back. There is a lot to see in Florida! Once we finally packed up we went across the street to the Waffle House for breakfast. We pulled in and suddenly there was a man in uniform, a colonel, standing at the passenger window. With a big grin on his face and light in his eyes! He saw us on the road and followed us into the parking lot. Seems he owns 3 VW vans! A 68, which his son drives, a 73 for parts, and an 82. He was so excited to see us. He took pictures of us and our van. Turns out he is a flight surgeon in the Navy...shades of Dr. Lou! He and Sammy had a great time talking. Younger than us, so no Vietnam connection. After breakfast we got on I10. Not being champions of the freeway we turned off on Hwy 98. It was NOT raining! Overcast and cool but no rain. OK...I have never been to Panama City, Ft. Walton Beach, etc. Destin does look like the Truman Show...and the rest...like every other bastardized beach in Florida. Can't see the water for the fast food places, tourist joints, and CONDOS! But! Once we got past all that it was old, old Florida. We meandered down the road, oohing & ahhing at the woods, the narrow highway and glimpses of the Gulf and bays. Sammy saw the sign for "scenic" highway 98 (I thought that's where we were!) Back and down we go. Even more beautiful. Looking for a place to stay for the night. We're hoping to make it to Apalachicola. I have never been there and have always wanted to see it. We passed a turn off which said camping and cabins. Turn around and go down this road for 3 miles, Wow! The road deadended at the water. St. Vincent's National Wildlife Refuge. You can take a shuttle over to the island which is a preserve. It's now about 6, the sun is setting, we have no food with us, so decide this is a place we want to come back to and continue on. We make it to Apalachicola, find a motel, the Rancho Inn, check in, settle in, clean up and go into town for dinner. Caroline's Seafood on the river. A dozen Apalachicola oysters for $7.50! Sammy was in heaven. Really great seafood. Very nice restaurant. Never did rain. Up early the next morning. Walked Cody across the street, saw 2 convenient stores, I am on the hunt for COFFEE! Spot a restaurant down the street past the motel. Take Cody back to the room and go for the java. Sat in front of our room drinking my jo. Sammy was still asleep. There is a car parked next to our van with California plates. I was thinking how far he was from home, just like how far we have been. Interesting to be in the reverse. Pretty soon this guy steps out. We start talking...he lives in Half Moon Bay, left home July 5, drove north up the west coast, across the top of the country, down the eastern seaboard to St. John's River and straight across to the Rancho Inn. He has covered 12,000 miles! Following his passion of wildlife photography. I mentioned that I know the area where he lives and that I had lived on the Russian River. He mentioned he knew the area and used to live in Cazadero. I barely responded...it was too weird. He said he is a fisherman on the Bering Sea, out of Dutch Harbor. I was becoming more speechless by the minute. Found out he flew helicopters in Vietnam. I said my husband flew F4s. By this time I feel like I should see about Sammy. Thankfully Sammy was up...Sammy! This guy says he lived in Cazadero, flew helicopters in Nam....fishes on the Bering Sea out of Dutch Harbor where my brother fishes. You need to talk to him!! I am too stunned. Sammy's talking to him and I hear "Bottling Works"...that was a wonderful bar in Caz...everyone hung out there. Big stone fireplace, pool tables, old, old, bar..hippies from the hills above Caz playing bluegrass..it was your dream of a bar. Owned by 2 great gay guys. One night, while they were asleep, they lived above the bar, the rednecks burned it down. They barely escaped with their lives, their dog didn't. With that...I found my voice. I went outside and asked him if he knew Pat & Doug Douglas, or Kathy Gibson. OK, now I know I am in the Twilight Zone. Not only does he know them...he used to live in the "little" house between Pat & Kathy, around 1972, when I lived there. Don, his name, is a Nam vet, used to drive a 71 VW, had long hair and a beard. As we talked we find out he knows everyone intimately, knows current information about them all. Who is this guy? I'm afraid to touch him for fear he really isn't there. But...who knows how "they" take corporeal form! I mean....this is TOO spooky! I tried calling Pat but couldn't reach her, called Kathy and she answered! We have a witness! She talked to Don and what a reunion. We spent about 2 hours with him, off he went to the north, off we went south. We went into town, had Cafe con Leche, guava turnovers. There was a band playing in the square, the 3rd annual blues concert, bikers everywhere. Warm Florida breezes. River at the end of the street, marsh grasses, we are truly home! We went into the Apalachicola River Keepers headquarters. Spent an hour with them talking about the state of the Apalachicola river and many rivers in Florida. The man there had just returned from a 107 mile, week long, kayak trip from the headlands down. Fascinating story. Our last 2 days on the road, in Florida, were really profound. What a fantastic end to our journey.
